Mount Rinjani, Lombok, Indonesia (3,726m)

Hiking is a terminal illness. Typical symptoms are frequent needs to hike, excessive time spent in those “bum-fuck-places", increased hunger of shopping for new hiking gears, lack of interest in staying home watching “Desperate Housewives", and a tingling sensation whenever an oversea hiking trip is booked. If you show any signs of these, that’s it, you are doomed. Like diabetes, there is no cure for hiking. You can only inject adrenaline to your blood stream and keep hiking from revolting in your body. I was diagnosed three years ago. In August 2013, I injected a big dose of adrenaline into my body and that dose of adrenaline was called, Mount Rinjani.

Stunning view of Mount Rinjani on the Senaru Cradle Rim

I am getting old, and some details are a bit blurry now but what I would not forget is the day we arrived in Lombok airport in Indonesia. Two dozens of us walked through custom to the arrival hall with heaps of hiking gears and big suitcases were like fresh baguettes rolled out of a boulangerie in a tiny little Frenchie town, piping hot and up-for-grabs. We were hassled by a lot of Indonesians brandishing Mount Rinjani hiking routes and packages on laminated A4 papers. Fortunately, representative from Rudy Trekker spotted us, grabbed us by the tail and hauled us all up to the bus before those piranhas devoured us. We drove a good 4 hours to reach the homestay in Senaru where we put up a night. It must have been a full moon night, as I remembered we were oohing and ahhing about the beatific night view after dinner. Day 1 of no-shower, recorded.

Start of the trek to Mount Rinjani

The next morning, we prep ourselves for an easy day of ascent to Sembalun Crater Rim (2,639m) via Sembalun Village (1,051m). While we waited for the guides to check us in, we wondered around, unable to contain our excitement with the bewitching view on sight. The walk through open fields were stunning. We had clear blue sky, blazing hot sun, mischievous clouds, lush greenery with contrasting browns, and smiley local folks, what more could you have asked for? A few times we stopped and monkeyed around with the porters and their heavy sacks which they carried on their shoulders through a bamboo stick with one sack on each end. It was anything but monkey business, I assured you.

A few of us on the open field, enjoying the hike.

Enjoying lunch prepare by guide and porters at Pos 3, Padang Balong

At Pos 3, Padang Balong, we enjoyed a recherché lunch prepared by the guide and porters. Delicious hot instant noodle soup with a lot of salt and vegetables could not beat the delicately decorated plates of pineapples. We laughed and joked among ourselves before it was time to pack up and continue our journey. From there on to the campsite, Sembalun Crater Rim, it was a 3 hours steep climb. I met a Polish guy on the way. He caught my attention because of the massive backpack he carried. He told me that he was on his own and he carried everything with him. I could see the agony in his face, but he was sweating the happy sweat.

Standing above clouds and so close to the sun at Sembalun Crater Rim

By the time we reached Sembalun Crater Rim, I was astonished. Both with the breathtaking view and perplexing trash. Sembalun Crater Rim is the stop where most of the hikers would set up camp for the night before their midnight summit attempt to Mount Rinjani peak. Being above clouds, feeling so close to the sun could not take my mind off the litres that garnished the less than 1km stretch on the crater rim. When I saw our newly established toilet for the day, I started laughing at the irony. Day 2 of absolutely no-shower, recorded.

We woke up far from the crack of dawn, in darkness, couldn’t feel Rosie at all and scrambled to change into warm hiking gears. It was a long journey to the Mount Rinjani peak which started with a moderately steep climb. I tried to talk my head into singing the emptiness out and hypnotised my legs into cooperating. 2 hours into the hike, I reached a flatter surface. I thought to myself, Well, that went swell. Little did I know, that was when the nightmare started - loose sand trek.

We stopped for sunrise and it was mesmerizing

Mount Rinjani peak, with the group of local students

When we signed up for the hike, we were told to bring a pair of good walking stick for the summit day. I have always taken a dislike towards walking sticks when I hike. As I struggled to put my feet more than 2 steps up without sliding down hopelessly while some other hikers were marching up Mount Rinjani like an army of soldiers, I regret it. Those cocky group of young french people zooming down from the summit zealously, bringing a cloud of sand dust with them did not help my frustration, not even a tinny little bit.

I moved towards the summit of Mount Rinjani, one step after the other with a group of local students and I felt peace and glee despite the whirling heart beat. I froze as the sun rose next to us. The bright orange with a tinge of redness donned the skyline, and every seconds that we were awed, darkness frittered away slowly. As if it was the end of a busking, as the tone dropped, the sky lid up, we dispersed. Fast forwarding my usual swearing session, I reached the summit of Mount Rinjani and savoured the victory in a picture with the group of students.

Never forget to take a grand picture like this, over looking the Segara Anak Lake

Unlike the challenging ascent, descending from summit back to Sembalun Crater Rim campsite was effing awesome. I recorded a video of me playing woohoo-yeehee-yayhoo down them loose sands and took a grand picture of the Segara Anak Lake. We had lunch and waited for everyone to regroup before heading down towards Segara Anak Lake. It was an enjoyable hike where we soaked up the sun and laughed heartily about silly stuffs, loony poses for the camera and George the locksmith. We did not forget our manners and greeted passerby with big grins while saluting their guts to summit Mount Rinjani via that steep trail.

Although it was late in the evening when we arrived at the campsite by the Segara Anak Lake, it did not stop us from stripping down to bare necessity and trekked to the nearby hot spring. Correction, nearby hot spring waterfall! Imagine an impressively sized waterfall, with hot spring water flowing and how amazing that must have felt on your skin after 3 days of no shower! Oh it was five-star! Apart from having to walk back to the campsite shivering all over, we have no complains.

View of Segara Anak Lake from the peak of Mount Rinjani

Everyone was more relaxed the next day even though we had a few steep climbs up to the Senaru Cradle Rim (2,641m). It was a perfect trek to take plenty of gorgeous pictures, different viewpoints. I have enjoyed this part the most as it gave a mix of frenzy and relaxation, much like a mellow thriller movie that I would enjoy on a fine Saturday night. Apparently the weather was not good so we moved the next day itinerary forward and headed down to the park entrance after admiring the view from the Senaru Cradle Rim. As soon as we reached the park entrance, the sky broke and it was pouring.

We hung out at the shelter after dinner. Around 8 p.m., we heard that someone was injured on the mountain and by 10 p.m. we saw the injured person being carried out on a bamboo stretcher. The severe injury on her leg was tormenting her and I remembered she puked a few times. They managed to get her out the same night and I sincerely hoped she was okay. The heavy mood was lifted after that and everyone started laughing at jokes flying across the lofty hut. We spent the night with the longwinded drizzle rain and left the park the next morning.

When a friend asked me about my hike to Mount Rinjani recently, I couldn’t helped but replayed the trip in my head. It was fun and memorable. Not only it was a challenge for me both physically and mentally, I have had a tremendous time spent with a bunch of nutty hikers. Having travelled now for almost a year, did hikes alone and with new faces; there is something of “je ne sais quoi" about spending a few days away with friends from home, trekking and hiking in foreign land that I miss a lot. Anyway, for my friends who are dying to hike Mount Rinjani, bon courage!!